Sunday, July 27, 2014

Where do I go from here?

Denver.  That’s where.  I start a dual Masters program in urban planning and public administration in August (two Masters in three years).  I’ll be at the University of Colorado Denver – right downtown – and I’m very excited!  First, though, I need to find an apartment.  That’s what I’m doing right now, and it’s like finding a needle in a haystack.  The market is extremely competitive in Denver at the moment, so wish me luck!

Today marks the end my first full week of running since I was in Split, Croatia on June 8th, and it marks the first week of running totally pain free (at least in my Achilles) since I was in Belgium. I only ran (more like “easy-jogged”) about three times from June 8th to July 21st, which might be more time off than I’ve taken in ten whole years of running!  I’m still not even sure if my Achilles is healed.  There seems to be a little lump of scar tissue under the skin that won’t go away, but I’ve been pain-free for quite some time.   I kept active with biking and swimming in my time off, but somehow I still got way out of running shape. I feel like my body is learning how to run again.  It’s a struggle but it seems to be coming back to me relatively quickly.  And I’m in Colorado now so I get to run in some cool new places again! 

I think I’ll hold off on traveling for a while.  I have so many ideas, though.  I’d like to run from the source of the Rhine River in Switzerland to its mouth in the Netherlands – about 800 miles.  That was actually the original idea for this trip, but for reasons of practicality and finances, we decided to just do a regular European tour.  Someday I’ll do something like that, though.  Maybe I’ll start with a run across Nebraska first.


…And So It Ends

Fifty-two days, fifteen countries, twenty-eight cities/places, approximately two hundred forty miles of running, and eight jars of Nutella later, this adventure has come to an end.  I had the bad luck of getting injured about ten days in (the pain started in Brugge, I think), and I finally accepted the fact that I was injured two weeks later, at which point I was on track to reach my goal of running 800 miles in 80 days or less according to the schedule I had set myself, but life had other plans.  Since I had no “obligation” to stay and I realized I should really get back to start looking for an apartment in Denver before I move in August, I figured I’d come home early.  Even though I didn’t reach the goal I had set on paper (or on electronic bits of data or whatever this “Internet” thing is made of) I think I accomplished the larger goals I had set my heart and mind to: I saw a good portion of the world, I met some cool people, and I think I’ve come home a better person than when I left.

Curtis and I made the most of our budget.  I’m sure you’re all secretly wondering how much this trip put me in debt.  It didn’t, actually.  I think I personally spent about $5500, and that includes WAY overpriced plane tickets!  That’s a good chunk of money, but a 52-day trip to Europe (including flights) for that much is not bad, not bad at all (granted, I had a little help with food and lodging expenses when my parents showed up at the end :) ).  If we had stuck only to Eastern Europe and booked all our plane tickets far in advance, it would have been much cheaper.  It just goes to show that one can travel without breaking the bank, if you’re willing to sacrifice a little comfort for a little more adventure. 

Along the way, we met up with some wonderful old friends and made lots of cool new friends, and I have to thank each and every one of them for making this trip an incredible experience.  So…

Thank you Laura and Fabian! Thank you Erika! Thank you Janika! Thank you Rick and Natalie! Thank you Zak! Thank you crazy old Ukrainian lady! Thank you super-cool hostel owner in Kotor! Thank you Deny! Thank you Sergio, Etienne, and Robin! Thank you Leah! Thank you Ricky, Jasmin, and I-forgot-your-name-and-I’m-so-terribly-sorry-but-you’re-not-going-to-read-this-anyway! Thank you Irish people in Bled! Thank you Mike from San Diego! Thank you insane hostel staff in Budapest! Thank you Amy, Zoe, Michelle, Sean, Ralph, and Conor! Thank you Triin! Thank you Hellevi! Thank you Hellevi’s family! Most importantly, thank you to all my friends and family at home who provided support and encouragement, especially my parents!  Even most-er importantly, thank you God!

I’m sure I forgot someone, but please don’t be offended if you happen to read this!  Which reminds me, thank you to everyone who’s been following this blog.  Thank you for your kind words and encouragement.  I never expected the pageview count for this thing to get well into the thousands, but it certainly did. (I’ll let you guess what it is!)

If anyone out there is planning their own trip to Europe, whether it’s a summer-long backpacking adventure or just a week-long getaway, I figure I should leave you with my recommendations.   Basically, my advice is this: Don’t neglect Central and Eastern Europe!  When most people plan European vacations: they tend to only think of the big-name Western European destinations like London, Paris, and Rome.  These are all spectacular and you should see them if you have the opportunity, but there are so many overlooked places in Central and Eastern Europe that are much cheaper and just as (if not more) spectacular, depending on what you’re into.  Most of my favorite destinations from this trip were in Eastern or Central Europe (like Kotor in Montenegro, Bled in Slovenia, Mostar in Bosnia & Herzegovina, just to name a few) and we missed out on so many places that we would have liked to have visited but didn’t have the time (like Poland, Romania, Latvia, Albania, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey…well, basically all the countries we didn’t visit).  On second thought, don’t go to those overlooked places in Central and Eastern Europe!  Part of the reason why they’re so great is that not quite as many tourists go there!  


And now... some maps explaining what you've probably been asking yourself since my first blog post: "Where the hell were they?"

Our full route - Curtis hopped off in the Czech Republic, where my parents  and sister hopped on

Days 1 - 14 (the numbers in the red pins indicate the number of nights stayed in each place)

Days 15 - 24

Days 25 - 40

Days 41-51



Day 52 - June 6

I went home today.  My flight from Helsinki’s airport left a couple hours after my mom’s and sister’s flight, since I only booked a couple weeks ahead of time (wasn’t sure when I was coming home).  I flew Icelandair, so I had a fifty minute stopover at Keflavik Airport in Iceland.  I was half-hoping that I would miss my connection there so that I’d be forced to spend some time in Iceland, but sadly I made it on time!  I had an excellent view of the southern tip of Greenland on my way....

Greenland - It sure ain't green




I expected coming home to feel strange. It didn’t. It felt like I had only been gone a few days. Time flies when you’re having fun!

Day 42 - 51 – June 26 - July 5


12.0 miles biking (approx.)
4.9 miles running
0.5 miles swimming


I’m sure you thought I had given up on this blog.  No, I still have a few more posts to finish out the trip, and this is the big one.  I basically considered the arrival of my family and the departure of Curtis to mark the end of our trip and the beginning of a family vacation, so I’m just going to summarize the remaining “family vacation” days…

My parents and sister Kristin landed in the early afternoon of June 26th, rested for a bit after we got to our hotel in the Lesser Town, and then we took off for the Old Town to start a “Beer Tour.”  We have our priorities!  The tour is organized by a company (Sandeman’s) that does tours across Europe – many of them for free.  This one wasn’t free, but was well worth the price, as you get to sample 3-4 of the best beers in the Czech Republic and indeed the world (because Czech beer is second best in the world, after Belgian beer – though that could be a matter of opinion) and the tour is highly informative and interesting if you want to learn about Czech beer.

Looking into the Lesser Town from the end of Charles Bridge

So many people...

Statue on Charles Bridge

The next day, we did the Sandeman’s free tour of Prague with a guide who was extremely – maybe scarily – enthusiastic, but a very good guide, nonetheless. Curtis left for the airport to go home, but returned back to our hotel that evening because when he got to the counter, they told him “you don’t have a ticket” (The booking company messed up big time, but it’s all been sorted out now).  He was able to get a flight home the next morning, though.  

Rudolfinum - a concert hall
Mom and Dad


View from Prague Castle












As Curtis headed home, we took the train to Leipzig, Germany, where my German “brother” Otto met us at the train station.  Otto was an exchange student who stayed with us for a year when I was a junior in high school.  We stayed with Otto’s family for a couple nights and we had a lot of fun barbecuing, watching the World Cup matches, seeing some of the sights in Leipzig, and going for a bike ride around the lake and through the parks near Otto’s house. 


Casbudener See - lake near Otto's house

Memorial to the Battle of the Nations (or Battle of Leipzig) - A battle involving over 600,000 soldiers, in which Napoleon suffered a huge defeat.

Thomaskirche - where Bach was choirmaster

Leipzig University campus

American Bison in Germany!

Bike ride


Kristin and a statue

Otto by the house his great-grandfather built in 1909

We then headed to Berlin, where mom, dad, and I had all been four years prior when we visited Otto’s family for the first time.  Sadly Berlin wasn’t quite how I remembered it.  It seems the whole city is a construction site at the moment, as they’re building a metro line right down the middle of Berlin’s city center.  They’re also reconstructing some of the major landmark buildings destroyed by bombs in World War II, such as the City Palace.  I suppose you can’t be upset with the fact that they’re improving the city, even if it does severely detract from the pleasant atmosphere you remember.  And still, being in Berlin during the World Cup, especially on a night when Germany was playing in the World Cup (against Algeria), was an experience to remember.  Kristin and I decided to visit the fan zone by the Brandenburg Gate, which, by the time we got there, was stretched half a mile down the road from the Gate, and was filled with Germans of all ages and levels of fanaticism and drunkenness.

Original section of the Berlin Wall preserved as a memorial

Pieces of the Berlin Wall

World Cup fan zone at the Brandenburg during the day.  Kristin and I came back many hours later to watch the game at night.


Pork Knuckle. Yum.

Me, Kristin, and Mom

World Cup fan zone at night

Typical German Fußball fan

Ferris wheel in the fan zone


Kristin

Grand Synagogue

Berlin Cathedral

Alexanderplatz - Neptune Fountain and the Fernsehturm (TV Tower)

Holocaust Memorial

"The Fountain of Youth" - painting at the Gemäldegalerie

Lukas Cranach's Last Judgment

In the Tiergarten

Statue in the Tiergarten

Walking up the steps of the Reichstag (German Parliament Building)

On the roof of the Reichstag - the building was mostly burned down in 1933 and blamed on the Communists (probably framed) which was the pivotal event in allowing the Nazis to take control.  In World War II, the building was further destroyed and wasn't reconstructed until the 60s.  Being the 60s, they did an awful job since, like most of the world, they forgot what architecture is.  Thus, the interior was again reconstructed and the glass dome was added in the 1990s according to the plans of famous architect Sir Norman Foster.

View from the roof of the Reichstag - the whole city is a construction site.

One of the corner towers on top of the Reichstag

Inside the glass dome - they have an exhibition on the buildings history around the glass in the middle.  

If there wasn't so much reflection on the glass, you'd see down into the German Parliament Chamber below it.

Leaky roof

The frieze reads - "[To] The German People"
Front of the Reichstag

A path in a cemetery near our hotel


After two nights in Berlin, my dad flew home (can’t leave the farm unattended for too long) and my mom, sister, and I continued to Helsinki, Finland.  There, we met up with Hellevi, my mom’s Finnish friend who was an exchange student at Albion High School forty years ago.  I spent my birthday (July 3rd) in Helsinki, consuming marvelous Finnish food (like moose sausage, smoked reindeer, and bear sausage) and enjoying the sights of Helsinki with my mom and sister and with Hellevi as our guide. 


Senate Square in Helsinki

Senate Square and Helsinki Cathedral (Lutheran)

Uspenski Cathedral (Russian Orthodox)

Uspenski Cathedral

Panorama inside Uspenski Cathedral

Harbor

Harbor, marketplace, and city hall (blue building)



An island on the way out to Suomenlinna

On Suomenlinna - It's a group of islands that houses a massive fortress built by the Swedes and expanded by the Russians and it's now a UNESCO World Heritage Site! 

Kristin with a cannon and a Canon

Not sure if he knows what he's doing

In the depths of the fortress



Lovely young lady walking by a fountain with a lovely young lady statue on top.  Lovely.



Finnish National Theatre

We celebrated the Fourth of July in Tallinn, Estonia, which is just a two-hour ferry ride from Helsinki.  There, we met up with Triin, a friend who I met while studying in Austria two years ago.  Triin showed us the Old Town of Tallinn, which is really impressive and has been beautifully restored since the end of Soviet occupation in 1991.

Kristin, Hellevi, Mom, and I on top of Linnahall - a Soviet era concert hall constructed when Tallinn hosted the sailing events of the 1980 Moscow Olympics - It's abandoned now and they're still figuring out what to do with it.  In the meantime, it's a magnet for loitering teenagers and curious tourists

Linnahall

Walls of Tallinn's Old Town and St. Olaf's Church

Streets of Tallinn

Town Hall Square

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Estonia's pink Parliament Building

City wall


View over the Old Town

A city gate

Fairy-tale medieval towers contrasted with Soviet hell-scape tower in the background

Mom, Hellevi, Triin, and Kristin walkin' down the street

Town Hall Square

Little castle in the woods just outside the city


On the ferry back to Helsinki

Tallinn from the ferry

Tallinn Skyline

Our last day in Finland and my last full day in Europe was spent relaxing at Hellevi’s family’s summer cabin on a lake in the forests northwest of Helsinki. I took the rowboat out on the lake with my mom, and I went for a short five mile run along the dirt roads through the forest (I’ve got a little scar-tissue buildup on my Achilles tendon but it doesn’t hurt at all).  We also had a magnificent feast of grilled moose sausages, salmon, fresh strawberries (nothing beats Finnish strawberries), a Finnish cake that I unfortunately cannot remember the name of, and many other edible delights.  After that, we alternated between swimming and sitting in the sauna (basically the national pastime in Finland).  It was great getting to know Hellevi’s family and it made for a marvelously relaxing end to a marvelously non-relaxing trip.

Mom in the rowboat

Oar, water, trees, sky

Birch-lined road

Running on a forest road

Dessert!

The ducks that swim by the dock every day because Hellevi's family feeds them